Home generators produce carbon monoxide and other risks.

Running a generator in a storm-devastated area is a safe way to power and light a home–but only if you apply a healthy dose of common sense and follow the generator manufacturer’s instructions.

Even with safety in mind, though, generating your own power is not without its risks.

For one thing, home generators produce carbon monoxide (CO) in their exhaust, which can easily asphyxiate a person should the fumes enter a house through an open window or door. The CO gas, a byproduct of combustion, is invisible and odorless. Even worse, it can linger in confined spaces and may be difficult to evacuate.

A typical 5.5-kilowatt home generator can produce the same amount of CO as six idling cars, according to a study by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). After the 2004 hurricane season, the CDC and the Florida Department of Health attributed 160 hospitalizations and at least five deaths to improper use of home generators.

“Never operate the generator anywhere inside the house, and that includes the garage, a carport or any other confined area,” advises Vince Morabit, a mechanical engineer and president of Piedmont Technical Associates in Rock Hill, S.C. He”s been involved with generators and outdoor power equipment since 1963. His colleague, Jack Campbell, boasts a similar resume dating back to the mid-1970s. Between the two of them, they”ve seen enough improper generator use to scare even the most hardened cynic. “I”ve seen some horrendous hookups,” Morabit says, referring to the fires, homemade extension cords, improper use of extension cords and other problems he”s witnessed.

“Keep the generator at least 10 ft. away from the house,” advises Campbell, “with its exhaust pointing away from the house.”

“Also be mindful of wind direction,” Morabit adds. Wind can push CO into the house. With sustained winds from one direction, you may need to run the generator downwind of the house, and out of the envelope of low pressure created near the house that can pull exhaust fumes inside.

Regardless of whether you run a generator, every home should have a working CO detector.

Other Tips:
Both Morabit and Campbell recommend the following:

The ideal setup for running a generator is to have an electrician evaluate the house’s electrical system for proper grounding and polarity, and then install a generator transfer switch. A homeowner connects the generator to the transfer switch. From there, the generator’s power is fed into the house’s service panel and to the dedicated circuits that have been specifically wired to be powered by the generator. The transfer switch also prevents electricity from feeding back into the electrical grid that powers your neighborhood. This protects utility workers from encountering unexpected current coming from your house–a dangerous condition known as backfeed.

Do not make your own extension cord to run a generator. Morabit has seen homeowners make cords with prongs on both ends. They plug one end into the generator and the other into one of the house’s outlets to send current to the service panel. This is an extremely dangerous practice says Morabit. Instead, use multiple generator extension cords plugged into individual appliances, or use a multihead generator cord, he says.

To prevent electrical shock, support the generator cords off the ground or relocate them rather than allowing them to lay in puddles. Likewise, replace any cord with damaged insulation.

Do not store fuel in the house, and do not fuel the generator while running. Instead, shut the engine off, let it cool then refuel it. While inconvenient, this is far safer than fueling a generator adjacent to its red-hot muffler, especially if you spill a little gasoline (not uncommon, especially at night). Clean up any spilled gas before restarting the generator.

Using a Generator During Power Outages

• Determine the amount of power you will need to operate those things you plan to connect to the generator.
  • Light bulb wattage indicates the power needed for lighting. Appliance and equipment labels indicate their power requirements.
• If you can’t determine the amount of power you will need, ask an electrician.
• Make sure your generator produces more power than will be drawn by the things you connect to the generator, including the initial surge when it is turned on. If your generator does not produce enough power to operate everything at once, stagger the use of your equipment.
• If your equipment draws more power than the generator can produce, you may blow a fuse on the generator or damage the connected equipment.

Use your generator safely

• Incorrect generator use can lead to carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning from the toxic engine exhaust, electric shock or electrocution and fire. Follow the directions supplied with the generator.

Never use a portable generator indoors

• Never use a portable generator in a garage, carport, basement, crawl space or other enclosed or partially-enclosed area, even with ventilation. Opening doors and windows or using fans will not prevent CO buildup in the home.
• If you start to feel sick, dizzy, or weak while using a generator, get to fresh air right away — do not delay!
• Install home CO alarms that are battery-operated or have battery back-up. Test batteries frequently and replace when needed.

Using your generator outdoors

• Place the generator away from windows, doors, and vents that could allow CO to come indoors.
• To avoid electrocution, keep the generator dry. Do not use in rain or wet conditions. Operate it on a dry surface under an open canopy-like structure. Make sure your hands are dry before touching the generator.

Use and store generator fuel safely

• Turn the generator off and let it cool before refueling. Gasoline spilled on hot engine parts could ignite.
• Store generator fuel in an approved safety can outside of living areas in a locked shed or other protected area. Local laws may restrict use or storage of fuel. Ask your local fire department for information.
• If you spill fuel or do not seal its container properly, invisible vapors can travel along the ground and be ignited by an appliance’s pilot light or arcs from electric switches in the appliance.
• Use the type of fuel recommended in the generator instructions or on its label.

Connect your generator correctly

• Plug appliances directly into the generator, or use a heavy duty, outdoor-rated extension cord that is rated (in watts or amps) at least equal to the sum of the connected appliance loads.
  ■ Never try to power house wiring by plugging the generator into a wall outlet, a practice known as “back feeding.” It can lead to the electrocution of utility workers or neighbors served by the same utility transformer.
  ■ The only safe way to connect a generator to house wiring is to have a qualified electrician install a power transfer switch.

The safest way to get emergency power

Permanently installed stationary generators are the best way to provide home backup power during a power outage.
]]> http://powerland.wordpress.com/2009/02/10/34/feed/ 1 powerland http://powerland.wordpress.com/2009/02/10/32/ http://powerland.wordpress.com/2009/02/10/32/#comments Tue, 10 Feb 2009 23:24:36 +0000 powerland http://powerland.wordpress.com/2009/02/10/32/ ]]> Using Portable Generators Safely

Portable generators are internal combustion engines used to generate electricity.

They are useful when temporary or remote powers are needed, and are commonly used during cleanup and recovery efforts following disasters such as hurricanes, tornadoes, etc. This fact sheet discusses specific hazards inherent with the use of generators and also provides helpful information to ensure that workers and others using such equipment remain safe.

 Hazards Associated with Generators:

• Shocks and electrocution from improper use of power or accidentally energizing other electrical systems.

• Carbon monoxide from a generator’s exhaust.

• Fires from improperly refueling a generator or inappropriately storing the fuel for a generator.

• Noise and vibration hazards.

Shock and Electrocution

The electricity created by generators has the same hazards as normal utility-supplied electricity. It also has some additional hazards because generator users often bypass the safety devices (such as circuit breakers) that are built into electrical systems. The following precautions are provided to reduce shock and electrocution hazards:

• Never attach a generator directly to the electrical system of a structure (home, office, trailer, etc.) unless a qualified electrician has properly installed the generator with a transfer switch. Attaching a generator directly to a building electrical system without a properly installed transfer switch can energize wiring systems for great distances.

This creates a risk of electrocution for utility workers and others in the area.

• Always plug electrical appliances directly into the generator using the manufacturer’s supplied cords or extension cords that are grounded (3-pronged). Inspect the cords to make sure they are fully intact and not damaged, cut or abraded. Never use frayed or damaged extension cords. Ensure the cords are appropriately rated in watts or amps for the intended use. Do not use underrated cords—replace them with appropriately rated cords that use heavier gauge wires. Do not overload a generator; this can lead to overheating which can create a fire hazard.

• Use ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs), especially where electrical equipment is used in or around wet or damp locations. GFCIs shut off power when an electrical current is detected outside normal paths. GFCIs and extension cords with built-in GFCI protection can be purchased at hardware stores, do-it-yourself centers, and other locations that sell electrical equipment. Regardless of GFCI use, electrical equipment used in wet and damp locations must be listed and approved for those conditions.

• Make sure a generator is properly grounded and the grounding connections are tight. Consult the manufacturer’s instructions for proper grounding methods.

• Keep a generator dry; do not use it in the rain or wet conditions. If needed, protect a generator with a canopy. Never manipulate a generator’s electrical components if you

are wet or standing in water.

• Do not use electrical equipment that has been submerged in water. Equipment must be thoroughly dried out and properly evaluated before using. Power off and do not use any electrical equipment that has strange odors or begins smoking.

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, toxic gas. Many people have died from

CO poisoning because their generator was not adequately ventilated.

• Never use a generator indoors or in enclosed spaces such as garages, crawl spaces, and basements. NOTE: Open windows and doors may NOT prevent CO from building up when a generator is located in an enclosed space.

• Make sure a generator has 3 to 4 feet of clear space on all sides and above it to ensure adequate ventilation.

• Do not use a generator outdoors if its placement near doors, windows, and vents could allow CO to enter and build up in occupied spaces.

• If you or others show symptoms of CO poisoning—dizziness, headaches, nausea, tiredness—get to fresh air immediately and seek medical attention. Do not re-enter the area until it is determined to be safe by trained and properly equipped personnel.

Fire Hazards

• Generators become hot while running and remain hot for long periods after they are stopped. Generator fuels (gasoline, kerosene, etc.) can ignite when spilled on hot engine parts.

• Before refueling, shut down the generator and allow it to cool.

• Gasoline and other generator fuels should be stored and transported in approved containers that are properly designed and marked for their contents, and vented.

• Keep fuel containers away from flame producing and heat generating devices (such as the generator itself, water heaters, cigarettes, lighters, and matches). Do not smoke around fuel containers. Escaping vapors or vapors from spilled materials can travel long distances to ignition sources. • Do not store generator fuels in your home.

Store fuels away from living areas.

Noise and Vibration Hazards

• Generator engines vibrate and create noise. Excessive noise and vibration could cause hearing loss and fatigue that may affect job performance.

• Keep portable generators as far away as possible from work areas and gathering spaces.

• Wear hearing protection if this is not possible.

Snow throwers are an effective alternative to using an old-fashioned shovel to clear snowy sidewalks and driveways. But if they’re not used properly, you can
pay the cost for not operating it safely.

As with any other mechanical device that has moving parts, before you operate a snow blower, you should read the owner’s manual clear through. If you don’t read the instructions first, then you’re putting yourself, as well as your family, at a risk for danger. Make sure that you understand everything, especially the safety features and user precautions that are listed in the manual. If you have any questions, there are always customer service phone numbers listed that you can call.

Probably the most important basic thing to remember, is, if your snow blower is gasoline-powered, be sure that you start it in a well-ventilated area. If you start it in a closed up garage or shed, you’ll risk getting Carbon Monoxide Poisoning. Make sure all of the hand guards and safety mechanisms are in place, and are working properly, before you start it. Also, make sure all of the nuts, screws, bolts, and fasteners on the snow blower are in place and are secured tightly. Check the air in the tires to make sure they are properly inflated.

Before you start your snow blower, protect your eyes by wearing a good pair of safety glasses or goggles. Then, check the areas you’re going to clear. Remove children’s toys, tree branches, rocks, and other debris. Finally, start the machine either by plugging it into an electrical outlet or by cranking up the gasoline engine. Hold the handles firmly and keep control of the blower at all times. If you’re a novice at using this type of equipment, then start out on a level surface. This will allow you to get the feel of it before you move on to trickier banks and unleveled areas. Blow the snow away from your house, vehicles, and people and pets.

All you need to do is walk behind the snow thrower and allow it to pull itself along. Don’t try to push it or hurry it. It works best at it’s own speed. For maximum safety, keep your hands, feet, and other body parts away from the auger, discharge chute, chains, gears, and the other moving parts of the machine. If a tree branch or other object gets stuck in the auger, shut the blower off first before attempting to remove it. Make sure the auger has completely stopped. Even then, never attempt to remove a clog with your fingers; use a long stick instead.

When you’re clearing off banks and other unleveled areas, maintain a firm foothold and keep control of the snow blower at all times.

And finally, if your snow blower is gas-powered, allow the engine to cool completely before you add more fuel.

Again, using a snow blower is faster and easier than using an old-fashioned shovel. If you follow the instructions and practice safety, your experiences with the machine can be industrious, as well as rewarding.

I suggest using a commercial pressure washer that provides an average output of 4-6 gallons of water per minute, anything less than 4 will make cleaning the exterior of a home take forever. The unit should also create 2500-3000 psi for this type of task, anything higher is not usually necessary and could cause damage to the paint or building material.

You will also want to have at least 100 feet of matching high pressure hose and 50-100 feet of 3/4 inch garden hose to feed your machine.

Since we need a way to dispense a form of detergent onto the structure being cleaned, we will need to make use of a down-stream chemical injector that’s attached to the high pressure outlet of the pump. If your machine didn’t come with one, you will need to purchase one that matches your units output range. It should be an adjustable one or fixed at 20-25%. The injector will have a siphoning tube that gets attached to it for drawing out detergents.

A general “house-wash” will be OK to use as a detergent in this case. If mildew and green algae seem to be present on the walls, you may want to add some chlorine to the mix as well.

If you need to mix up this solution you will need a 10 gallon chemical tank or a 5 gallon bucket to put it in so you have something to dispense it out of.

And of course you will also be using your wand and tips that came with your unit. The tips most likely needed for this job would be your “white 40 degree” tip and your “black soap” tip.

Another accessory you will need if the house is tall at some points is an extension rod for giving your wand a longer reach. I would suggest one of a 6 foot length so you can reach all of your eves. Rule of thumb… ladders and pressure cleaning equipment don’t go together very well so we want to do as much as we can from the ground if possible.

OK that should be all we need to start cleaning a 1-story home.

Setting up your equipment and accessories

OK, let’s start with the general set-up of the equipment and layout… The first thing we need to do is check out the areas around the perimeter of the dwelling that’s going to be cleaned. We need to make sure that we remove all items that may get in our way during our work process as well as any items that we don’t want to see get wet as a result of our actions. We should have at least 7 feet of free space to work with from the wall out to where we’ll be standing most of the time as we walk from one corner of the house to the other.

I suggest starting in one corner of the house if possible, so this means we should use a hose drop to pull water from that’s somewhat near that side of the house. It will also be best to have the machine centered between both corners of that side of the house so that we know that we have enough high pressure hose to make it from end to the other without any problems.

Before hooking up the 3/4 inch garden hose to our machine we should always purge that hose in order clear anything that may have got up into the male end of the hose while it was not in use. If it was outside and left open, things like lizards and small frogs may be inside it and we just can’t have that going into the pump during operation. There should be a catch screen on the inlet of the pump but we will still damage the pump if that opening becomes blocked and an insufficient amount of water is flowing. So it is imperative to purge the line first. Run that hose for about 25 seconds then connect it to the inlet of the pump.

Next we hook up our 100 foot length of high pressure hose through the use of the quick connectors on the pump and hose end. Once this is done we again run the water so that it now flows through the pump and out of the high pressure hose. Run the water for 20 seconds then connect your wand to the other end of the high pressure hose.

Now since we are going to apply detergent to the walls, we will need to connect our “black soap tip” to the wand and get our mix of detergent ready in a container that we can draw from. The container should be on the ground and about 1 foot away from the machine so that the injector feed hose reaches the bottom of the container at all times.

At this point we should be set-up and ready to go.

**Make sure that the water is turned on all the way before starting the machine**

In the next module below we’ll talk about the techniques used for this task.

Common Techniques for giving a “House-Wash”

Before you start shooting high pressure water at a house there is one important thing you should know… Please don’t put your tip close to the windows when rinsing. Always keep your tip at least 4 feet back from all glass because anything closer can result in damage. If you have double-pane windows you should be back at least 5 feet and may want to consider just using the garden hose to rinse them off. They are known to sometimes get added condensation between the panes if the difference in temperatures are just right.

One more thing… that detergent we mixed up has some chlorine in it so we must ensure that any over-spray doesn’t damage your plants and shrubs that may be around the house. We do this by first spraying straight clean water onto all the plant life. This is something that we have to do through-out the job, so don’t forget.

OK, now that we covered all that, let’s get started.

As I was saying before, we want to start at a corner of the house and do sections at a time, especially in the hot summer sun where the hot air will tend to “bake” our detergent onto the surface.

So with the machine now running and our siphoning hose in our container of detergent already we will begin to spray our mixture into the open air away from everything until you start to see a foaming substance coming out or you can smell the chlorine that is in the mix. At that point it’s time to apply it onto the first section of wall. The best place to start is at the bottom corner, working your way up to the top using a back-and-forth motion from side-to-side. The wand should be directed back-and-forth at a rate in which there’s plenty of solution applied to the surface. Keep doing this until you’ve covered a section of about 20-24 feet wide (12-16 feet if it’s being done on a hot sunny day).

Once that’s done, we will now be switching tips and rinsing the detergent off. You may switch the tips out without shutting the machine off as long as the trigger is not being pulled. (switch to your white 40 degree tip when rinsing)

When rinsing, start back at the end in which you started applying the soap. Instead of doing it from the bottom up, you will want to start from the top down. Use the same type of motion as before, but a little slower making sure that you rinse thoroughly and that you get any spots that may need a little extra attention. Just make sure you are no closer than 16 inches from the surface. And remember NOT to get that close to windows (4 ft. minimum distance).

Well, that’s really all there is to doing a house-wash. To complete the rest of the task just follow the same instructions as above until the whole house is finished. If you get to a section that you can’t reach with your wand, just take the tip off and add that extension rod to the end of the wand along with the tip you were using and you should have no problem doing the job as planned. Please Note: You will feel more backlash from the wand now that you’ve added more length to it, so be careful with your actions.

If you noticed a few areas need to be touched up with detergent and re-rinsed, just do it while you are in the area before you move to the next section.

When you have totally completed the task, be sure to rinse the chemical injector with clean water before storing the unit away until next time. The way this is done is the same way you pulled detergent through it. Set up a 5 gallon bucket in place of the detergent container and let the machine draw the water through the whole system until the bucket is empty. Use a minimum of 3 gallons of clean water and remember that the soap tip must be used to accomplish this.

The easiest way to learn how to use a pressure washer is to first understand how the power washing systems work.

There are four basics to the power washing process regardless of what machine or method you use.

The four elements are: amount of pressure, water flow rate, cleaning solution used and water temperature.

If we take out just one of these four elements, the cleaning characteristics will change.

For example, if you can only afford a cold water pressure washer instead of hot water washer, you will have to compensate for that loss. In other words, pressure washer basics tell you that you will have to add more detergents, apply higher pressure and use more water to achieve better results.

Therefore, you will always have to make adjustments combining these four elements in order to achieve the ideal cleaning atmosphere for your particular cleaning task.

Nevertheless, when learning how power washing systems work and how to power wash, keep in mind that detergents emulsify the dirt better and faster as the temperature increases. This is especially true when cleaning oil and grease from a concrete surface. That’s why hot water power washing systems are perfect for such jobs.

So, how does high-pressure cleaning actually work?

It’s all in the process of breaking the bond between the dirt and the surface being cleaned. As I mentioned earlier, for the best results you will combine the four essential elements.

However, shortfalls do exist. Here is another example of how pressure washers work: let’s say you notice you have a little detergent left and you decide to decrease the amount injected (down-streamed) through the pressure washer. A cleaning solution decrease in this case will have less effect on the debris being cleaned. Because of that, now you must work with other elements to make up for that loss.

You have to increase the pressure, water temperature and the water volume. Even though, you are less likely to reach the same level of efficiency (by decreasing the amount of detergent), you will somewhat neutralize that loss.

OK, one more thing before you move on to the other related sub-topics…

If you are going to buy a pressure washer, do yourself the biggest favor of them all besides getting educated on their maintenance and use…

Please DON’T purchase a cheaply made residential unit.

Spend the extra money on a 9-13 hp / 3000-4000 psi @ 4-5.5 gallon per minute “COMMERCIAL” Washer. Also be sure to have at least 100 ft of matching high pressure hose and use a 3/4 inch garden hose Not a 5/8 inch hose, to feed the machine with water.

This is the #1 reason why people fail at pressure washing projects. Those cheap machines are nothing but unreliable, useless junk that take forever to even get a small job done!!

It does NOT pay to buy something that is underpowered and likely to last only 3 years, if that. The commercial grade units will last 6-7 times longer and provide you with the power needed to get any job done in much less time with much greater results.

And remember if something goes bad on a commercial pump, the pump can be fixed, unlike a residential pump that uses mainly brass parts that warp in high temps and become completely ruined.

Commercial pumps can also come set-up with belt drives which distance the pump away from the engine to keep the pump much cooler, which in turn gives longer life if used correctly.

One last reason for going with a commercial washer is that they can run large accessories that residential units can’t power, such as surface scrubber attachments like the one pictured above which are used for cleaning concrete and all other flat-work.

By READER’S DIGEST BOOKS
For AP Special Features

Power washing your house every year with a high-pressure water spray can not only keep it looking good but can cut the need to repaint as often.

Power washing aluminum, steel, vinyl or wood siding removes grit that grinds away the surface like sandpaper when it’s agitated by wind or rain. Power washing is also a good way to prepare a house’s surface for repainting. If you’re lucky, once the siding is clean you may find that you don’t need to paint after all.

If your house does need repainting, a thorough power washing removes not only dirt, mildew and moss but also peeling, flaking and chalking paint. You can easily wash even a large house in a single day.

Power washers are available for rent, usually by the day, from tool rental stores and some paint specialty stores. Make sure someone demonstrates how the equipment works and answers all your questions before you leave the store with the washer.

Power washers are rated by the pressure of their spray, measured in pounds per square inch (psi). For the average house, a rating from 1,200 to 2,500 psi, compared to about 60 psi for a garden hose, is sufficient. Less than 1,200 psi won’t do the job effectively, and more than 2,500 psi could do damage if not handled skillfully.

Power washing with clear water usually does the trick. But to remove chalking, moss or mildew, you’ll probably need a general cleaning agent, available where you rent the equipment.

Nozzle design and spray width are important. The recommended nozzle sizes are 15, 25 and 40 degrees with the 15- and 25-degree nozzles the ones that achieve the best results.

Power wash from the bottom up, to prevent dirt and the cleaning agent from running down onto the unwashed surface and leaving streaks. Rinse from the top down, to wash away the cleaning agent and dirt thoroughly and avoid leaving streaks on the clean surface.

Here are some more tips:

- Always wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from splashback or accidental direct spray.

- Make sure all windows are closed tightly.

- Turn off the power to light fixtures and electrical outlets at your home’s main service panel. Cover them with plastic bags or film secured with duct tape.

- Place drop cloths over plants and shrubs. Move lawn furniture away.

- If it’s windy, don’t wash.

- Keep the nozzle 10 to 12 inches from the surface, at about a 45-degree angle.

- Use extra caution when cleaning aluminum or steel siding. A power washer can bend sections – even blow them right off the house.

- Windows can break if you spray directly at them.

- Don’t spray under the laps of horizontal siding; it can lift them. And don’t spray directly into crawl spaces or gable-end vents.

- Don’t let children operate a power washer.

- When it’s operating, never put your hand near the tip of the wand or aim it at a person or animal. The water will penetrate and cause severe injury.

- Keep at least 10 feet from any power lines.

You’ll be working with a lot of water pressure but with a little practice you should be able to control the wand. Keep in mind that a telescoping wand – which you’ll need to reach higher floors – can kick back 3 to 4 feet each time you depress the handle.

You will probably tire from fighting the water pressure. When you do, take a break.

Pressure cleaning is an efficient way to get your wood deck looking great. Decks take a beating throughout the year, especially in climates where there are extremes in temperature and weather conditions. Wood decks face constant exposure to the elements. Sunlight, grime, dust and mildew, as well as animal and human traffic, constantly bombard a deck ‘s surface. On top of that, add the wearing effects of rain, ice and snow. All these things cause wood to break down and deteriorate.

All these factors can cause substances to become embedded in the wood. When it comes time to wash your deck, either as part of a general cleaning or to get it ready for staining, you’re likely to find it ‘s not an easy job. While common household cleaners may get rid of some surface dirt and grime, they can’t do the heavy-duty cleaning that pressure washing can.

Think of what you’ve seen accumulate on your wood deck. More than likely, you’ve seen tree sap, bird droppings and greasy substances that have found a home on your deck. In addition, there are often rust stains from metal clasps, braces and nails. There is quite a buildup of residue on a wood deck ‘s surface. This is the case whether it ‘s coated or uncoated. Coated wood decks tend to lose their coating eventually and require refinishing as they accumulate dirt and stains.

The best way to get all of these unwanted substances off fast is to use a pressure washing system. A quality power washing apparatus can save you time and money. The force of the water action, concentrated to provide maximum cleaning power, means you get the job done faster. The water pressure does the nitty-gritty work, so you don’t have to use expensive de-greasers or other cleaning agents as much, if at all.

Pressure washing provides the optimally clean surface condition that is needed before you can stain your wood deck. Staining provides increased protection from the elements, but there is no use attempting to stain your wood deck if it still has dirt and other harmful residue. When you stain wood that is still dirty, you trap damaging particles on it. This causes it to deteriorate as these particles continue to infiltrate the wood under the stain coating. Power washing eliminates unwanted substances so your staining solution covers an ultra-clean surface. This makes your deck ‘s finish appear attractive and vibrant.

Pressure cleaning of a wood deck is a wise alternative to scrubbing with corrosive cleansers. Many cleansers can themselves cause wood to wear and have a dull look. Power washing can do a job quickly and thoroughly, leaving the original wood free of harsh chemicals and abrasives. When you use a power washer of proper pressure for the size and type of your wood deck, you are using a powerful solution for getting stubborn stains out.

A quality power washer with a wide fan tip works well on wood decks. The wide fan tip will promote even spraying, which is safer for wood fibers. A good pressure washing system will get rid of mildew, fungus and penetrating dirt that cause wood to break down.

When you clean your deck, consider a pressure washing system. Its focused, powerful cleaning action can eliminate the need for detergent. That makes power washing environmentally friendly and efficient at the same time. With pressure washing, you have an immaculate looking deck. And because power washing is fast, you have more time to spend enjoying that beautiful deck.